09/28/08 06:51 AM
One-Tank Trip / Finger Lakes
Take the scenic route around Cayuga Lake
By Christine Smyczynski
SPECIAL TO THE NEWS
The fall foliage is beckoning and gas prices have come down a bit. It’s the perfect time to take a scenic drive.
One of our region’s more interesting drives is the Cayuga Lake Scenic Byway, an 87-mile route that circles Cayuga Lake in the heart of Finger Lakes wine country. A drive along this scenic route can take as little as three hours if you don’t stop at any of the attractions, to several days, if you explore all the sights along the way. There are numerous accommodations, including bed-and-breakfast inns, located along and near the byway.
While you could pick up the byway at any point along its loop, the best place to begin when coming from the Buffalo area is just off New York State Thruway Exit 41, about a 90- minute drive from Buffalo. Head toward the 10,000-acre Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge, which is a major resting spot for migrating waterfowl. Since fall is migration time for waterfowl, it’s a great time to visit the preserve. Be sure to climb the observation tower for a better view of the grounds and take the 3z-mile wildlife drive, which circles the main pool of the nature preserve.
Continue your journey by following Route 90 south down the east side of Cayuga Lake. When we revisited this route a few months ago, we passed an interesting BBQ place, Mo’s Pit BBQ in the Village of Cayuga, which we later learned is noted for smoked BBQ, chili, stew and ribs. Unfortunately, we were traveling early in the day and they hadn’t opened up for business yet; perhaps we will be able to sample their fare next time.
About midway down the lake you’ll come to one of my favorite places, the Village of Aurora. Three years ago, my husband and I spent several days here when we celebrated our 25th anniversary. The village, which is home to Wells College, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A number of years ago Aurora was just one of the many sleepy, nondescript villages scattered throughout this region. Fortunately for the village, a philanthropic alumnus of Wells College, who made her fortune by designing the American Girls dolls, stepped in and gave back to the town that educated her. Funds were given to renovate the historic Aurora Inn, along with the entire downtown business district.
Just north of the downtown area is the headquarters of MacKenzie-Childs pottery, which is sold in exclusive shops in New York, Palm Beach and Atlanta. In addition to a production facility, there is a large retail shop, along with an 1840’s farmhouse decorated completely with MacKenzie-Childs pottery and furnishings, which is open for tours.
We stayed at the Aurora Inn, which overlooks the lake. Open year-round, it’s a beautiful and elegant spot for a romantic getaway weekend. The inn’s dining room is open to the public. There are also several more casual restaurants located in the village, along with some boutique shops. A few miles south of Aurora are a couple of wineries of note: Long Point and King Ferry, which are open daily for wine tasting and sales. If you like blush wine, be sure to sample King Ferry’s Saumon.
The byway continues south toward Ithaca along Route 34B and Route 34. On our most recent trip to the region, we just drove through Ithaca. Maybe the next time we’re in the area, we’ll take the time to explore what the city has to offer. There are a number of attractions here that I’d like to visit, including several museums, numerous shops and restaurants. Ithaca is also known for its waterfalls. Several are located in the downtown area and more than 100 waterfalls are within 10 miles of downtown.
Follow Route 89 up the west side of Cayuga Lake. About seven miles north of Ithaca is Taughannock Falls State Park, which has a 215-foot waterfall located within the park. To view the waterfall, take an easy 20- minute walk into the gorge from the park road. The park and gorge are especially pretty in the fall. In addition to the gorge, the park also has a shoreline along Cayuga Lake. Camping is available in the park through mid-October. However, a lovely Victorian bed-and-breakfast inn, Taughannock Farms Inn, located adjacent to the park, is open later in the season.
As you continue your journey northward, you’ll pass more than a dozen wineries, which are part of the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail. The trail is the first organized and longest running wine trail in New York State. It started in the early 1980’s with just a handful of wineries and has grown to 16 wineries today. This year, the wine trail is celebrating its 25th season, so you’ll find commemorative items for sale at the winery gift shops.
A number of the wineries are hosting harvest festivals and other special events throughout October. The entire wine trail will take part in the 15th annual Holiday Shopping Spree, Nov. 22-23 and Dec. 6-7.
I especially enjoy wines from the Americana Vineyards, located just a few miles north of Taughannock Falls State Park. In addition to wine, they also have a large selection of gourmet foods and other gift items in their retail shop. Their Crystal Cafe serves gourmet sandwiches, soups and desserts.
Some of the other wine trail members include Bellwether Hard Cider, the only hard cider producer on the trail; Hosmer Winery, noted for its Riesling and Cabernet Franc; and Knapp Winery, which has a restaurant overlooking the vineyards.
The last winery you’ll see is along the scenic byway is Montezuma Winery, along Route 5 and 20, close to where your journey began. Montezuma is noted for its Cranberry Bog desert wine, one of my personal favorites.
Take the New York State Thruway east to exit 41. Go south on Route 414, east on Route 318 and east on Route 5 & 20 to Route 90 south.